as France before it even became France. There is something defiant and recalcitrant about this corner of ancient Gascony, as there is about its most famous product. Armagnac is difficult to get to by today’s standards: Toulouse and Bordeaux are the best part of two hours away and feel like different worlds. Fast roads and railway lines seem to falter when they approach the territory of D’Artagnan.... By Harry EYRES
